A differential is ideally suited for tight turning situations, but very expensive to replace if it breaks.  Therefore, we don't recommend it unless you really need it.

(Most pictures on our site may be enlarged by clicking on the picture.  Pictures will open in a new window.)


Will you be on flat to gently rolling terrain, or climbing hills and going through ditches?

If you're going to be on flat to gently rolling terrain, you can save money by buying a clutch kart. Clutch karts are similar to a car in 3rd gear -- it's a single gear-ratio drive system, with little take-off power. The kart must be driven 5 - 6 mph or faster to prevent burning up the clutch. (If you drive a clutch kart less than 5 - 6 mph for about 2 minutes, you will fry your clutch!)

If you're going to be climbing hills and going through ditches (or you need to drive slowly), you must get a torque converter. A torque converter is what's used on snowmobiles and "automatic transmission" ATV's.  A variable gear ratio system that is load sensing, it automatically detects and provides the proper gear-ratio based upon the amount of gas you're giving the engine and the terrain upon which you're riding.  This has become the most popular transmission.

 
Not sure if you're seeing a clutch or a torque converter?  On the LEFT is a Comet brand centrifugal clutch;  on the RIGHT is a Comet torque converter.  The torque converter consists of a DRIVER (on the left side of the picture), a DRIVEN unit (right side), and a belt.

LEFT:  Carter Brothers uses a belt clutch that is often mistaken for a torque converter because it has a belt.  It is, however, a centrifugal clutch.  RIGHT:  The Brister's Design and Manufacturing patented clutch lube system, invented by Chuck Brister.

What are the ages and/or heights of the drivers?

Taller people need longer karts. If you have a variety of heights, you'll probably want to go with an extended length model that has a fingertip adjustable seat so it can accommodate all riders.

For younger kids, a small engine, such as a 50cc or 90cc, may be appropriate.  However, most people of 12 and older will want a 150cc engine, which is generally plenty for most people.  If you're on rough terrain, or want extra power, consider the 250cc.

You'll also want to make sure the kart has enough carrying capacity if larger persons will ride in it. Some twin seat karts have a carrying capacity as little as 100 lbs., many are less than 200. (150cc Twister Hammerheads are rated at 400 lbs. +)


Do you want a single seat or twin seat kart?

This is a matter of personal preference;  however, there are many benefits to a twin seat kart. With a twin seat kart, you can take your friends riding with you.  An experienced driver can take an inexperienced rider (or one too young to drive) for a ride.  Most manufacturers have quit making single seats, and we no longer carry them.


 

WELDS: Unbelievable, but not everyone welds all around the pipe! Check the welds on the kart before you buy. Don't buy a kart that has been "spot-welded."

STEEL:  Ask the gauge of the steel in the frame.  The smaller the number, the thicker (and stronger) the steel.  One mail-order catalog boasts "an 18 gauge high strength frame."  That's like saying "high strength toilet paper."  18 and 16 are popular gauges for go-kart frames, but should be avoided;  for a high-quality frame, 14 gauge "double-framed."  If you're not sure, pick up the front of the go-kart.  If it's light, don't buy it!

The black spindle is made by a very large kart manufacturer, but one whose karts we don't sell.  The red one is from a Brister's Mean Machine.  Click on the picture to see the difference in thickness in the connecting arms.  Which one would you rather have on your kart?
 

TIRES: Look at the number on the side of the tires; it will say something like "4.10x3.50-4." The last number, in this case "4," is the rim diameter. 4" tires are very small, and provide little traction. There are a few different types of 4" tires, which actually makes them preferable to 5". 5" tires are the most limited "standard" tire size there is, and they are very popular on inexpensive karts. When you have a 5" tire, you're pretty much stuck with it. If you get a kart with a 6" or 8" tire, you may choose between different tire styles. For example, you may buy a kart with ATV tires for riding off-road, but then move to an area where you no longer have off-road terrain available, so you'll want to switch to turf saver or slick tires. The 6" & 8" tires are the only ones that give you true flexibility. Plus, they provide much more traction. Caution: You may find a kart that uses a 7" tire. This tire can be very difficult to find, and very, very expensive to buy. It is the worst tire size to buy, even worse than the 5".

BRAKES: Scrubber brakes -- the ones that rub against the tires -- should be avoided. They don't work well in the best of conditions, and if the tire is wet or goes flat, they can become inoperable. Band brakes are a good brake for tires up to 16" in height. (The "16" will be the first number in the tire size, stamped on the side of the tire.) If the tire is over 16", don't settle for less than a disc brake;  you'll be disappointed if you do.
 

PULL vs. ELECTRIC START: Pull start is fine for most people, but persons under 10 - 12 years of age often cannot start the kart themselves. This can be a problem if the young driver is away from adults and kills the engine. Electric start is often desirable for younger drivers, and is now very affordable.

STEERING FORK:  Just in front of the steering wheel, there is often a fork, similar to an upside-down "V" (^), that holds the steering column.  This fork generally angles back (toward the driver) and out (toward the side frames), where it is welded.  The problem with this is it makes shorter people spread their legs apart to get around the "V", which shortens the effective length of their legs -- they can't reach the pedals.  It also tends to hit you on the inside of your legs, especially on bumps, leaving bruises.  Several brands use a narrow inverted "U" instead, running it almost straight down and welding it to an extra cross-beam.  Another method is to bring an "I" support from the front of the kart, instead of to the floor.  The latter two methods are preferred as they do not get into the driver's way and do not limit the driver's ability to reach the pedals.

BRANDS:  The brand of kart is one of the most important decisions.  It not only determines the quality of the kart, it also determines the parts availability and price.  For example, some brands sold by mass-merchants are rather inexpensive to buy, but have very expensive replacement parts which often have to be special ordered (if you can find a dealer that can order them).  You might have to pay more and wait for the parts to come in than if you get a brand sold in real go-kart shops.

Some brands make parts more expensive to replace.  For example, it's rather easy to run into a tree and bend a drive hub.  On many brands, you may buy a replacement hub for $20 - $30.  However, some brands (primarily sold at mass-merchants) make the drive wheel and hub as an assembly;  that is, you have to buy the hub, rim, sprocket, and tire as an assembly, just to replace the hub.  This can easily cost $100 or more.

Also, ask how long the manufacturer has been in business.  Many have come and gone, and parts are no longer available for them.  If a manufacturer has only been in business a few years, will they be in business in the future to provide for your kart?  You don't want to end up with a kart that needs a simple part, but it is no longer available.  (Kartco and Ken-bar Streaker have been in business for many years.  Others, such as Yerfdog, have been in business for only a few years, and is now in bankruptcy.  Murray has been in business a long time, but has been sold multiple times,  has only made go-karts for a few years, and is currently (01/2005) in bankruptcy.  Manco (also sold under "Fox," "Phoenix," "Masters of Motion," and other names) has been in business a long time, but has emerged with a new company name (Manco Powersports) after the old company (Manco Products) filed bankruptcy.  Brister's Design and Manufacturing Co. Inc. (Chuck Wagon utility vehicle) is a newer company, but it's owner and management have over 100 years of karting experience, and the Brister family has been manufacturing since 1959.